Rose Bertin (1747-1813)
Marie Jeanne Bertin, also known as Rose Bertin, was born in Abbeville, France. She was a dressmaker in the mid-18th century, during the Rococo or more commonly known as the “Late Baroque” era. Her popularity as a dressmaker skyrocketed when she was introduced to Queen Marie Antoinette and became the Queen’s “Minister of fashion.” Bertin had a remarkable impact on Parisian fashion during her time and continues to influence haute couture today.
Christian Dior (1905-1957)
French couturier, Christian Dior, was born in the seaside town of Granville, and moved to Paris when he was five years old. Though he came from a wealthy family, as a way of making a little money for himself, Dior sold his original and beautiful sketches on the street. Dior first began working at an art gallery bought for him by his father. Later, Dior found a job working with fashion designer Robert Piguet, until he was recruited into the military in 1940. After two years in the military, Christian Dior began working as head designer along with Pierre Balmain for couturier Lucien Long. On December 16th, 1946, Dior founded the house of Christian Dior and a year later showed the first collection. After his death in 1957 of a heart attack, the then-21-year-old Yves Saint Laurent became the artistic director.
Though the dress made by Rose Bertin and the haute couture dress from Dior look very different, there is clear inspiration taken from Bertin for the modern Dior gown. Specific aspects such as; the dramatic size of the skirt, the long fitted sleeves and the intricate designs of the embroidered bead-work are greatly influenced by Bertin’s style.
I also drew some inspiration myself and combined both aesthetic styles from Bertin and Dior for the future trend. I predict a shorter version of the full skirt will marry the new sheer fabric trend of Dior’s fall 2017 couture collection and spring 2018 ready-to-wear collection. Ruffles have been making their way back in a big way, and I believe they will have to continue to do so in upcoming seasons. Like Bertin, Dior loves playing with feminine silhouettes as well as colors. As I researched the Pantone colors for 2018 spring/summer, I noticed a reoccurring shade of a soft and feminine powder blue ironically named “Little Boy Blue.” I felt this color screamed Rose Bertin and what better color to pair that with than a more chic and modern shade fit for Dior, the young man from the seaside…my eyes were immediately caught by a deep burnt blueberry shade called “Sailor Blue.”
Images of both gowns from: